Weekend at Tree Gate Farm

Paula and I have been friends since 7th grade when she asked me to sign her petition to run for student council. 51 years ago - unbelievable!

On Saturday, we visited the Noxubee Wildlife Refuge

and had lunch at Oby's.

Tom and Paula could only stay for the weekend, they had to go back to their primary home for work next week, but graciously invited us to stay in Starkville.

To Starkville, Mississippi

Bay Springs Lake is part of the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway, commonly known as the Tenn-Tom. It's a 234-mile man-made waterway where coal and timber are the major commodities being transported. There are 10 locks and dams along the waterway which connect the Tennessee River and the Tombigbee River.

Pharr Mounds:  there are 8 large dome-shaped Indian burial mounds scattered over 90 acres created around 100-200 AD.

There is less tree cover on this part of the Trace allowing us to see more farmland.

Old Trace:

I got a thumbs-up and a big smile for having a coffee ready for Dick at the end of today's ride.

We drove about 40 miles to Starkville and eventually found the dirt road we were looking for

and the correct driveway.

We drove slowly,as we neared the creek

to find our oasis for the next week.

Tom and Paula's house - YIPPEE!  we're here.

Miles = 3075

To Bay Springs Lake, Mississippi

Today's starting point was here:

There are many historical markers and informational signs along the Natchez Trace.

This is the site of McGlamery Stand.  In frontier language, a stand was a trading post or inn - sometimes both.  Although this stand existed from 1849-1864, it's still the name of a nearby village.

The Old Trace is sometimes described as "snake-infested, mosquito-beset, robber-haunted, Indian-traveled forest path."  When one trail became too muddy, a new path would be cut.

At this point, I crossed the state line from Tennessee to Alabama:

The Tennessee River.  In the 1800s, George Colbert operated a stand and ferry here.

After 30 miles of riding in Alabama,

This is now our #1 rated campground for this trip.  Piney Grove Campground at Bay Springs Lake, operated by the Corps of Engineers.  Beautiful with great facilities.

Miles = 2997

To Lawrenceburg Tennessee

After 4 days of rest, it felt really good to get on the bike and ride. I left from the motel and rode NW through Franklin toward Nashville.

It was 12 miles before I reached the turn-off to the

The double-arch bridge of the Trace which crosses SR-96.

The Natchez Trace is a 444-mile long National Parks Scenic Parkway. Historically it was probably a series of hunter's paths which came to form a trail from the Mississippi River over the low hills into the valley of the Tennessee River. By 1785, traffic along the trail had increased considerably as farmers began to float their crops and products down the rivers to Natchez or New Orleans. Because they sold their flatboats for lumber, returning home meant walking and they tramped the crude trail into a clearly marked path.  When steamboats on the rivers made travel northward faster, safer, and easier in the 1820s, the path became a peaceful forest lane.

Today the Trace is a wonderful road to bicycle.  There are no shoulders, but the speed limit is low and there is very little traffic.  There are no stop signs or lights the entire way, entrances and exits are far apart.  On my first day, I saw many flocks of wild turkeys and many deer.

This was the signpost where I started:

After riding 12 miles, I came to this signpost which baffled me.  I was 31 miles farther away from Nashville, but only 2 miles closer to Tupelo. 

The Old Trace:

Water Valley Overlook:

Dick rode to the exit to US-64 where we drove to Lawrenceburg, the Birthplace of Southern Gospel Music (as designated by the US Congress).  David Crockett State Park is very close to town.  Dick and I both remember, as children growing up in the 1950s, loving the television show about Davy Crockett - the "king of the wild frontier."  I had a coonskin cap and Dick had a Davy Crockett lunch pail.

The weather today was perfect for me especially. It was in the 60s when I started out and maybe got into the low 70s for a high. No whining about the heat today.

Miles = 2911

Eggplant Parmesan

This recipe is from the Cook's Illustrated website, executed to perfection by Billie in Roanoke, Virginia.  It was by special request from grandson Ricky.
Eggplant
2 pounds globe eggplant, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch rounds
1 tablespoon kosher salt
8 slices high-quality white bread (about 8 ounces), torn into quarters
1 cup grated Parmesan cheese (about 2 ounces)
1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
4 large eggs
6 tablespoons vegetable oil

Tomato Sauce
3 cans (14 1/2 ounces each) diced tomatoes
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 1 generous tablespoon)
1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes
1/2 cup fresh basil leaves, chopped

8 ounces whole milk mozzarella, shredded (2 cups)
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese (about 1 ounce)
10 fresh basil leaves, for garnish

1.  For the eggplant:  toss half the eggplant slices and 1 1/2 teaspoons salt in a large bowl until combined, transfer salted eggplant to large colander set over bowl.  Repeat with remaining eggplant and salt, placing second batch in colander on top of first.  Let stand until eggplant releases about 2 tablespoons liquid, about 30-45 minutes.  Arrange eggplant slices on triple layer paper towels; cover with another triple layer paper towels.  Firmily press each slice to remove as much liquid as possible, then wipe off excess salt.

2.  While eggplant is draining, adjust oven racks to upper- and lower-middle positions, place rimmed baking sheet on each rack, and heat oven to 425°F.  Pulse bread in food processor to fine, even crumbs, about fifteen 1-second pulses (you should have about 4 cups).  Transfer crumbs to pie plate and stir in 1 cup Parmesan, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/2 teaspoon pepper; set aside.  Wipe out bowl and set aside.

3.  Combine flour and 1 teaspoon pepper in large zipper-lock bag; shake to combine.  Beat eggs in second pie plate. Place 8 to 10 eggplant slices in bag with flour; seal bag and shake to coat eggplant.  Remove eggplant slices, shaking off excess flour, dip in eggs, let excess egg run off, then coat evenly with bread crumb mixture; set breaded slices on wire rack set over baking sheet.  Repeat with remaining eggplant.

4.  Remove preheated baking sheets from oven; add 3 tablespoons oil to each sheet, tilting to coat evenly with oil.  Place half of breaded eggplant on each sheet in single layer; bake until eggplant is well browned and crisp, about 30 minutes, switching and rotating baking sheets after 10 minutes, and flipping eggplant with wide spatula after 20 minutes.  Do not turn off oven.

5.  For the sauce:  while eggplant bakes, process 2 cans diced tomatoes in food processor until almost smooth, about 5 seconds.  Heat olive oil, garlic, and red pepper flakes in large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until fragrant and garlic is light golden, about 3 minutes; stir in processed and remaining can of diced tomatoes.  Bring sauce to boil, then reduce heat to medium-low and simmer, sitrring occasionally, until slightly thickened and reduced, about 15 minutes (you should have about 4 cups).  Sitr in basil and season to taste with salt and pepper.

6.  To assemble:  spread 1 cup tomato sauce in bottom of 13 by 9-inch baking dish.  Layer in half of eggplant slices, overlapping slices to fit; distribute 1 cup sauce over eggplant; sprinkle with half of mozzarella.  Layer in remaining eggplant and dot with 1 cup sauce, leaving majority of eggplant exposed so it will remain crisp; sprinkle with 1/2 cup Parmesan and remaining mozzarella.  Bake until bubbling and cheese is browned, 13 to 15 minutes.  Cool 10 minutes; scatter basil over top, and serve, passing remaining tomato sauce separately.

Note:  there were eggplant slices leftover which we made into excellent sandwiches the next day.

Rest Days in Roanoke, Virginia

Saturday, 3 September: a day of driving to arrive to a warm welcome at Billie's house in Roanoke. We met Billie and JD 2005 on the Gulf Coast of Florida. We were finishing our Southern Tier bike tour. They were riding the opposite direction across the Southern Tier then up the Pacific Coast. We have been friends ever since. 

Billie is an excellent cook.  She made Eggplant Parmesan on Sunday night - which I didn't think I even liked until I tasted this recipe.

She has the stove of every cook's dreams:

Every afternoon we had Billie's wonderful cappuccinos.

Billie's family:  (L-R) Isaiah, Ricky (grandsons), Christie (daughter), Billie, Shay (Jason's daughter), Jason (Christie's boyfriend)

Billie, thank you for letting us stay at your house and rest these past few days.  You are a wonderful friend and we appreciated your hospitality very much. 

Tropical Storm Lee began dumping rain on Sunday and continued through Tuesday when we were driving toward Nashville.  We got a motel in Franklin, about 10 miles south of Nashville.  It's no fun to put up a tent when the ground is soaking wet and it's dark.

To Pikeville

This was a great road to ride. It was a "parkway" but there were no signs restricting bicycles at the onramp so I took a chance. Fast traffic but a very wide shoulder.  Exits were every 14-18 miles, so no worries there. 

Dick had some trouble today with flats.  I think he fixed 4 in a row before deciding to throw away that tube and start using a new one.

Dick rode the parkway until the restriction signs appeared so we ferried his bike to Hazard (NOT the town where the Dukes of Hazzard lived. The Dukes were from Hazzard County, Georgia.) where the parkway ended and it became multi-lane and unrestricted. He rode to Water Gap where I picked him up and we drove to Pikeville. We found a really (REALLY) cheap motel. As we were unloading our stuff, a local police officer came driving by, stopped, and suggested we take our bicycles inside the room tonight. We always do that anyway, but it gives you an idea of the neighborhood we were in.

Miles = 2831